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The recipe: Viet home-style doner kebab.
Why I tried it: I never used to know what people were talking about when they said “doner kebab,” but eventually I realized it was the same thing as the shawarma I ate from sidewalk carts back home in New York, and the gyro sandwich I ate for lunch every single day across the street from the darkroom where I worked in Boston. From that point on, all 3 terms induced the same Pavlovian response in me. So when one of my favorite authors interpreted one of my favorite foods through the palate of one of my favorite national cuisines, there was no question – I had to try it
Why I loved it: This slab of protein has all the things I love about meatloaf, all the things I love about pork, and all the things I love about gyros/shawarma/whatever you call it. It’s got a glistening soy-painted crust. It’s easy, because you just throw it together in the Cuisinart. You can eat it in a banh mi or on anything else, or all by itself. The absolute worst thing about it is having to wait for hours till it’s cold enough to slice and eat, so when it comes out from the oven you’d better have another favorite food out on standby, ready to distract you and your greedy little fingers.
Estimated preparation time: About 1 hour, plus cooling time (if you can stand to wait that long)
Viet Home-Style Doner Kebab
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
⅔ cup (3 oz / 90 g) coarsely chopped yellow onion
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne
¾ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cumin
generous 1 teaspoon cornstarch
1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour, rice flour (brown or white), or almond meal flour
1 large egg
2 tablespoons canola or olive oil
1¼ pounds (565 g) ground pork, about 85 percent lean
1 teaspoon regular soy sauce mixed with ½ teaspoon water
1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C / gas mark 7). Line a baking sheet with foil and set aside.
2. Place the garlic, onion, pepper, cayenne, salt, cumin, cornstarch, flour, egg, and oil in the bowl of a food processor and whirl to create a finely textured, soupy mix- ture. Scrape down the sides, then add the pork, dropping it in as large chunks. Restart the processor to combine, letting it run for about 5 seconds after the meat begins gathering around the blade. Aim to mix things as if you were making a meatloaf. Visible bits of pork are good!
3. Use a spatula to scrape and mix in seasonings clinging to the processor walls. Transfer the meat to the prepared baking sheet and shape it into a slab, about 11⁄4 inches (3 cm) thick, 5 inches (12.5 cm) wide, and 8 inches (20 cm) long. For a lovely brown crust, use your fingers to paint the top and sides with the diluted soy mixture.
4. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the top is redwood tree brown and small sizzling bubbles appear. The meat will puff and maybe bend upward slightly. Cool completely before thinly slicing, or better yet, cool, wrap, and chill overnight or for as long as 3 days.
5. Cut the meat cold, then warm in a microwave oven or in a skillet over medium heat. Don’t fret if the meat slices break, just slide it all into your sandwich.
From The Banh Mi Handbook, by Andrea Nguyen. (10 Speed Press, 2014)
The recipe: Roasted Parmesan-crusted cod with baby potatoes
Why I tried it: I love cod – the silky, dense, smooth, thick, moist flakes and subtle scent of the sea. But since it’s become endangered, cod has been a rare treat for me. When I do get it, I want a recipe that’s worth it. And if I’m substituting halibut, I want a recipe that’s worth it.
There are two things I love about Susie Middleton recipes: 1) They always work. And 2) They have flavor in places other recipes don’t even have places. They’re like that stylish person you glimpse at a party who has actually taken the trouble to wear a hair accessory, and probably a scarf too, in a color that complements her shoes. Truly amazing, people like that. But I digress. The point is, I thought this recipe would be worth it.
Why I loved it: Here are some details you and I might not have thought of: whizzing an English muffin in the blender for easy, tender bread crumbs. Gluing the crumbs to the fish with mayo that’s been doctored with mustard for more flavor. Roasting the veg not just with oil, but balsamic and honey! When it’s done, a dizzy flavor spins up out of the pan, like you’ve just walked across your herb garden, crushing the thyme underfoot.
Estimated preparation time:Just over 1 hour: 20 minutes of prep, 25 minutes of inital roasting while you do a litle more prep, 20 minutes of final roasting.
Roasted Parmesan-Crusted Cod with Baby Potatoes, Bell Peppers, Onions & Thyme
8 ounces small fingerling or baby red potatoes(smallest size you can find), cut in half lengthwise
1⁄2 medium bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small or medium onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
10 to 12 pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half
3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
Big pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
6 ounces firm-ripe cherry tomatoes (about 20) cut in half
3⁄4 cup fresh breadcrumbs (from 1 English muffin, blitzed in a food processor; a little extra is fine)
1⁄4 cup coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 1⁄2 pounds cod (or other firm white fish fillet like striped bass or halibut), cut into a few pieces to fit more easily into the pan
Heat the oven to 425°F. Combine the potatoes, peppers, onions, olives, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon thyme, the balsamic vinegar, honey, 3⁄4 teaspoon salt, and crushed red pepper in a mixing bowl and toss well. Spread in one layer in a 9- x 13-inch baking pan. Roast for 25 minutes. Reserve the bowl that the veggies were in and add the cherry tomatoes, 1 teaspoon oil, 1⁄2 teaspoon thyme, and a pinch of salt. Toss well.
In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, the remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil, the remaining 1⁄2 tea-spoon thyme, and a big pinch of salt. In another small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise and mustard. Lay the fish on a plastic cutting board and season with salt. Spread the mayo-mustard mixture over the top of the fish and along the sides. Add the cherry tomatoes to the pan of roasted vegetables and stir to combine.
Push the veggies to the edges of the pan to make room for the fish. Nestle the fish amongst the veggies; then pat the breadcrumb mixture over the fish pieces. Return the pan to the oven and roast for 20 to 22 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the crust on the fish is golden. Cut the fish into serving pieces with a metal spatula and arrange on four plates. Spoon the veggies, along with the pan juices, around the fish. Serve right away.
Reprinted from Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton. Copyright (c) 2014 by Taunton Press.
The recipe: Red, Green, and Gold Salad with Toasted Almonds
Why I tried it: I don’t test a ton of many-ingredient salads – unless the ingredients list allows me to claim it’s a “dinner salad”. If it’s a one-pot meal, I can justify spending most of my 1.5 hours of prep time on a salad. Here the chickpeas were the clincher – “Protein!” I exclaimed, and promptly excused myself from rummaging in the freezer for some meat to defrost.
Why I loved it: This one’s for everyone who eats with their eyes. It’s a riot of color and flavor – bright and tropical in the summer, when I made it, and festive on the holiday table. Thanks to the smooth avocado, slithery mangoes, velvety beets, crisp almonds, and crunchy onions, every bite has some kind of interesting texture effect. You’ll probably still be experimenting and trying to decide whether you like velvety/crisp or slithery/crunchy better by the time you get to the bottom of your bowl.
Estimated preparation time: If you’ve already pickled the beets and you’re not too fussy about chopping vegetables into matchsticks, you can do this in under 45 minutes. Otherwise, give yourself an hour and a quarter.
Red, Green and Gold Salad with Toasted Almonds
The only real issue you may run into making this salad at this time of year is sourcing fresh mangoes. Don’t sweat it – you can use frozen mangoes for the vinaigrette (or just buy a mango dressing if you can’t deal with that). You can leave out the fresh mangoes, or sub in another ripe, sweet fruit that’s more available, like pears. It won’t be the same, but it will still be great.
For the Pickled Beets
1⁄2 cup fresh lime juice
1⁄4 cup distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1⁄2 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 small boiled beets, peeled and sliced
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
For the Mango Vinaigrette (makes about 1 cup)
1⁄2 cup mango puree, preferably fresh
1⁄3 cup distilled white wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, diced
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and ground white pepper
For the Salad:
8 ounces mixed greens
1 medium mango, sliced
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas
1⁄4 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1⁄2 cucumber, cut into matchsticks
1⁄2 red bell pepper, cut into matchsticks
1 medium ripe avocado, sliced
4 ounces feta, crumbled (about 1 cup)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted
1. To make the marinade for the beets, in a small bowl, whisk together the lime juice, vinegar, sugar, oil, garlic and mustard until blended. Season with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl, combine the beets and onion, pour the dressing over the beet mixture and season again with salt and pepper. Stir in the cilantro and let sit for at least 30 minutes or refrigerate for up to 1 week.
2 To make the mango vinaigrette, in a small bowl, whisk together the mango puree, vinegar, garlic and mustard. Gradually add the oil, whisking steadily until the vinaigrette thickens. Season with salt and white pepper.
3. To assemble the salad, place the greens in a large salad bowl. Add the mango, chickpeas, red onion, cucumber, bell pepper and avocado. Add half the feta and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with a liberal amount of mango vinaigrette and toss. Top with the beets, toasted almonds and the rest of the feta and serve immediately.
Caribbean Potluck by Suzanne and Michelle Rousseau is published by Kyle Books, priced $24.95. Photography by Ellen Silverman.
This year’s most VIRTUOUS Best Recipe.
The recipe: Provençal vegetable soup with basil pistou
Why I tried it: This is a “little of this, little of that” soup I tested in August, and I had lots of odd leftover vegetables and basil from the garden. Even though it was still pretty warm out and I am usually only a soup-eater in cold weather, it seemed like a good way to use what I had on hand. Also, I was Setting an Example for the children by trying to prove you can make something nice out of practically nothing.
Why I loved it: I had a lot of faith in my vegetables coming together and behaving themselves, with a little careful chopping and sweating, but I didn’t expect them to sing. That was before I even dolloped on the pistou. The pistou added a nimbus of spicy basil fragrance you could drown in, and it’s the reason I had seconds – and thirds – and even, to be honest, a tiny bit of fourths too.
Estimated preparation time: Put on some music and give yourself a good hour for chopping (this can happen while the beans are cooking), followed by an hour of simmering. The good news is, this makes a lot, you can store it/freeze it, and it gets better every day.
Provençal Vegetable Soup with Pistou
There’s no need to be overly literal about the ingredients list. If you don’t have fava or navy beans, it’s OK to use other small beans – flageolets would be nice. (Bigger beans will need longer.) You could use even canned beans in a pinch, though the flavor isn’t as fine. You could use different vegetables. But do take the trouble to chop small dice – it makes a difference. You can skip the pistou if you’re vegan, but otherwise definitely don’t.
1 1⁄2 cups fresh fava beans, shelled, or 3⁄4 cup dried haricot (navy) beans, soaked overnight
1⁄2 tsp dried herbes de Provence
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 small or 1 large leek, finely sliced
1 celery stick, finely sliced
2 carrots, finely diced
2 small potatoes, finely diced
4oz green beans
5 cups water
1 cup shelled peas, fresh or frozen
2 small zucchini, finely chopped
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
Handful of spinach leaves, cut into thin ribbons
Sprigs of fresh basil, to garnish
For the pistou
1 or 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1⁄2 cup (packed) basil leaves
4 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1. To make the pistou, put the garlic, basil and Parmesan cheese in a food processor and process until smooth, scraping down the sides once. With the machine running, slowly add the olive oil through the feed tube. Or, alternatively, pound the garlic, basil and cheese in a mortar and pestle and stir in the oil.
2. To make the soup, if using dried haricot beans, place them in a pan and cover with water. Boil vigorously for 10 minutes and drain. Place the par-boiled beans, or fresh beans if using, in a pan with the herbes de Provence and one of the garlic cloves. Add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer over a medium-low heat until tender, about 10 minutes for fresh beans and about 1 hour for dried beans. Set aside in the cooking liquid.
3. Heat the oil in a large pan or flameproof casserole. Add the onion and leeks, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion just softens.
4. Add the celery, carrots and the other garlic clove and cook, covered, for 10 minutes, stirring.
5. Add the potatoes, green beans and water, then season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, skimming any foam that rises to the surface, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for 10 minutes
6. Add the zucchini, tomatoes and peas together with the reserved beans and their cooking liquid and simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until all the vegetables are tender. Add the spinach and simmer for 5 minutes. Season the soup and swirl a spoonful of pistou into each bowl. Garnish with basil and serve
If you deep-fry just ONE THING this year….
The recipe: Keralan fried chicken – recipe actually by Atlanta chef Asha Gomez
Why I tried it: I can’t even begin to describe to you the mixed pleasure and pain of recipe-testing a fried-chicken book in the middle of summer. I saw the picture of the chicken atop the waffles, and then I read the bold, unstinting ingredients list (one bunch of mint! one bunch of cilantro!), and I thought “Maybe this will make it all worthwhile…”
Why I loved it: The waffles may have sold me on trying this recipe, but they weren’t the clincher when I made it. No, the clincher was two-part: 1) Boneless pieces! It was a pain boning all that chicken, but it was totally worth it. The marinade penetrated from both sides, and the chicken cooked up fast & juicy, and you could eat it with a knife and fork. 2) Cilantro-mint flavor + crisp skin crust + spicy maple syrup! This is what a chef would call a nice move, and what I would call a close-your-eyes-and-thank-your-god-you’re-alive-to-taste-this moment.
Which is why, having eaten more fried chicken that any sane person would want to over the summer, I made it again for my birthday at the end of August, and made my friends eat it with me. I skipped the waffles, thereby leaving more room for chicken.
Estimated preparation time: 24 hour marinade, followed by about 1 hour prep & fry. Add a half hour if you’re boning the chicken yourself, and you’re pretty fast at it. (And add more time yet if you’re making your own waffles to go with it.)
Keralan Fried Chicken and Spicy Maple Syrup (plus Insert Your Favorite Waffle Here)
This recipe originally included these cardamom waffles – a great idea, but I found the waffle recipe a little lackluster for the effort. You could use your own favorite waffle, or a frozen Eggo, or no waffle at all. But even if you do without the waffle, don’t skip the spicy maple syrup, because it’s incredible on that chicken skin. Oh – be sure to use skin-on boneless. The skin is important, and so is the lack of bone.
For the spicy maple syrup:
2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds, coarsely ground
2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds, coarsely ground
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 cups maple syrup
For the chicken:
2 cups buttermilk
10 garlic cloves
1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled
6 whole serrano (or 3 large jalapeño) peppers, seeded if desired
Bunch of fresh cilantro
Bunch of fresh mint
2 tablespoons kosher salt
8 boneless, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
Vegetable oil, for frying
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 stems fresh curry leaves
2 tablespoons coconut oil, melted
1) Marinate the chicken: In a blender, purée the buttermilk, garlic, ginger, peppers, cilantro, mint, and salt until smooth. Place the chicken in a large glass dish or bowl, pour the buttermilk purée over the chicken, toss to coat, and marinate for 24 hours.
2) Make the syrup: Toast the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, and red pepper flakes in a dry, hot medium skillet until fragrant and the seeds begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk the toasted spices into the maple syrup and let the syrup infuse at room temperature for 24 hours.
3) Fry the chicken: Fill a large (12-inch) cast-iron skillet with 1⁄3 inch oil and gently heat to 300°F. Set a wire rack on top of a rimmed baking sheet and set aside. While the oil is heating, remove the chicken from the buttermilk purée, gently shake off excess, and dredge each piece in flour. Place the chicken in the skillet, skin side down; the oil should come halfway up the pan. Cook the chicken until it turns golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes per side. Drain the chicken on the rack and drizzle with the melted coconut oil. While the chicken is draining, crisp the curry leaves by frying in the oil until crisp, 10 to 15 seconds.
4) Serve the chicken on top of the waffles and drizzle with the spiced syrup. Garnish with the fried curry leaves.
Reprinted from Fried & True by Lee Schrager with Adeena Sussman. Copyright (c) 2014 by Lee Schrager. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, a division of Random House, LLC.
Find a good place to hide the leftovers NOW.
The book: Cooking Light Global Kitchen: The World’s Most Delicious Food Made Easy, by David Joachim (Oxmoor House, $29.95 – here’s my complete review)
The recipe: Chocolate baklava
Why I tried it: To be honest, I think it was just because I already had the phyllo in the freezer, as well as a wide selection of nuts. It’s possible I also wanted an excuse to buy some Nutella, which for me falls firmly in the want-to rather than the have-to shopping-list category.
Why I loved it: I like baklava, but I’ve never been an addict. This recipe changed everything. The baklava looked perfectly OK when it went into the oven. But when it came out: Oh. My. God. Those crumbly layers of glistening phyllo. That subtle crunch. The chocolate. The butter!!
I made this recipe twice. The first time, I hid the leftovers so I could have them for “lunch dessert” (which is a very special time of the day for me). I tried to eat each piece only with my incisors, so it would last as long as humanly possible.
The second time, we had company. There were, I think, 10 people. There weren’t any leftovers, but I did manage to sneak 4 “servings” before it was gone.
Estimated preparation time: According to the book, “Hands-On Time: 25 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 21 min.” This is true if you already toasted the nuts and remembered to thaw the phyllo last night.
Another great recipe from this book: Indonesian vegetable salad with peanut sauce (“Shortcut gado-gado”)
Serves 24 (serving size: “1 piece.” HA!)
3/4 cup honey
1/2 cup water
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
1 cup hazelnut-chocolate spread (such as Nutella)
1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup roasted pistachios, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup blanched toasted almonds, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
24 (14 x 9–inch) sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed
1/2 cup butter, melted
1. Combine first 3 ingredients in a medium saucepan over low heat; stir until honey dissolves. Increase heat to medium; cook, without stirring, until a candy thermometer registers 230° (about 10 minutes). Remove from heat; keep warm. Discard cinnamon stick.
2. Preheat oven to 350°.
3. Place hazelnut-chocolate spread in a microwave-safe bowl; microwave on high 30 seconds or until melted. Combine hazelnuts and next 5 ingredients (through salt).
Lightly coat a 13 x 9–inch glass or ceramic baking dish with cooking spray. Working with 1 phyllo sheet at a time (cover remaining dough to prevent drying), place 1 phyllo sheet lengthwise in bottom of prepared pan, allowing ends of sheet to extend over edges of dish; lightly brush with butter. Repeat procedure with 5 phyllo sheets and butter. Drizzle about 1/3 cup melted hazelnut-chocolate spread over phyllo.
Sprinkle evenly with one-third of nut mixture (about 1/2 cup). Repeat procedure twice with phyllo, butter, hazelnut-chocolate spread, and nut mixture. Top last layer of nut mixture with remaining 6 sheets phyllo, each lightly brushed with butter. Press gently into pan.
4. Make 3 lengthwise cuts and 5 crosswise cuts to form 24 portions using a sharp knife. Bake at 350° for 35 minutes or until phyllo is golden. Remove from oven. Drizzle honey mixture over baklava. Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cover; store at room temperature.
From Cooking Light Global Kitchen by David Joachim (Oxmoor House)
“What on earth is poudre de Colombo!?”
The recipe: Skillet prawns* with “poudre de Colombo”
*but go ahead and use big shrimp, because what’s the difference?!
Why I tried it: This was one of those serendipitous finds that turned up during recipe-testing. I loved exploring the different spice mixes in this book, which allowed me to make full use of my Devastatingly Awesome Spice System. But this night I was in a bit of a hurry and between the relatively quick spice mix (only 8 ingredients!) and the quick-cooking shrimp, I figured I could close the deal in 45 minutes max.
Why I loved it: I doubt Columbus himself ever tasted it, but poudre de Colombo is a jewel of a seasoning from the French West Indies (proving that good things can come from disastrous colonial events). It’s a warm, dusty mild curry; its hardest-to-get component is fenugreek, and its most unexpected one is raw rice. Once the seasoning hits the warm butter, it’s magic – a huge, woodsy-spice-chest aroma blossoms into the air. And then – between their own natural pigment and the turmeric – the shrimp turn a fiery coral, and you end up using them as daubs to scrape up any spice residue left in the corners of the pan.
Estimated preparation time: 45 minutes; but if your shrimp are already de-veined and shelled and you’ve made up the spice mix or bought it in advance, you could do it in 30 minutes flat.
Skillet Prawns (Shrimp!) with Poudre de Colombo
If you can get true prawns, great! If not, use biggish shrimp (say, at least 21/25’s). If you can only get small-to-medium shrimp, work as quickly as you can at the end so they don’t overcook.
For the vegetables:
2 tablespoons butter
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed, halved, and cut into 1⁄2-inch slices
1 large yellow onion, halved and cut into 1⁄2-inch slices
1 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon Pernod, or 1⁄2 teaspoon fennel seed, smashed
For the shrimp/prawns:
2 teaspoons ground poudre de Colombo (see below for recipe)
1 teaspoon paprika
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound medium prawns (about 18-24), peeled and deveined, tails intact
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
To prepare the vegetables, in a 12-inch stainless steel skillet, melt the butter. Add the fennel and onion and cook for 4 minutes, flip, and cook for 4 minutes more. Add the chicken broth and Pernod; cover and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the onion is soft.
Uncover and cook until all of the liquid has evaporated and the fennel and onion begin to brown. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
Meanwhile, to prepare the prawns, in a small bowl, mix together the poudre de Colombo, paprika, lemon zest, thyme, sugar, and salt. In a 10- to 12-inch skillet, melt the butter and olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the spice mixture and the prawns and cook for 2 to 3 minutes; flip over and cook for 2 minutes more.
Rewarm the fennel mixture over medium-low heat. Spoon one-quarter of the mixture onto each plate and top with 4 to 5 prawns. Sprinkle over the lemon juice, garnish with the parsley, and serve.
POUDRE DE COLOMBO
Can’t be bothered with grinding your own spices? Here’s where to buy poudre de Colombo. Making your own poudre de Colombo? Good on you! Here’s the recipe.
1 whole clove
Scant ½ teaspoon cumin seed
¼ teaspoon coriander seed
Scant ¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
Scant ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seed
⅛ teaspoon black mustard seed
Scant ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Scant ½ teaspoon uncooked rice
1. In a dry pan over medium heat, toast the clove, cumin, coriander, peppercorns, fenugreek, and mustard seed, shaking the pan, for 3 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl and sprinkle the turmeric over the warm spices.
2. In the same skillet, toast the rice for 2 minutes, shaking the pan. Add it to the other spices while hot (the heat from the spices and rice lightly toasts the turmeric). In a spice grinder, grind the mixture to a powder.
Our series continues with a sleeper hit you might have missed when it released this spring.
After a break for the weekend, we’ll catch up with Best Recipe #3 on Monday.
The book: Vegetarian for a New Generation, by Liana Kassoff (Stewart Tabori & Chang, $24.95)
The recipe: Tamari-butter roast potato wedges
Why I tried it: I love roast potatoes almost – yes, actually, I think, yes – better than fries. My standby recipe involves blanching the potatoes in baking soda-water and roasting them in duck fat, and I rarely depart from it. But the phrase “tamari butter” had an electric effect on me. I remembered how, when I externed for Wylie Dufresne a million years ago, he used to finish a gratin with this lava-like, dangerous sweet soy-butter glaze – maybe it had balsamic in it too – and how I couldn’t get enough of it. I had to try.
Why I loved it: As much as I love duck fat, this recipe reminded why butter and potatoes are such a compelling match. While any kind of fat can guide you to that terrific potato texture – the crisp edges, the fluffy, piping-hot interior – only butter sings out its presence in every bite. And what butter! infused with rosemary, seething with garlic and that lingering, umami-filled bottom note of tamari, you could drape it over just about any roast vegetable and nobody would even remember there was anything else at dinner.
Estimated preparation time: Just under an hour, if you prepare the tamari-butter mix while you preheat the oven.
Tamari-Butter Roasted Potato Wedges
Kassoff warns that you mustn’t skip preheating the tray! Potatoes need high heat to set that crispy roast crust the way you like it
4 tablespoons (65 g) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons tamari
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large sprig fresh rosemary, leaves stripped off and minced
Freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds (910 g) russet potatoes, peeled if you like, and cut lengthwise into 3/4-inch (2-cm) wedges
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Set a large rimmed baking sheet in the oven while it heats.
2. In a small saucepan, combine the butter, tamari, garlic, rosemary, and a few grindings of pepper. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the butter is melted, then remove the pan from the heat.
3. Put the potatoes in a large bowl, drizzle them with the tamari-butter mixture, and toss well to coat. Spread the potatoes on the hot baking sheet in a single layer. Roast until nicely browned on the bottom, 25 minutes, then turn the potato wedges with a metal spatula and roast until browned on the other side and tender throughout, 15 to 25 minutes more. Serve hot.
From Vegetarian for a New Generation; Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2014.
Hurray! It’s time for everyone’s favorite series: the Best Recipes of 2014!
Every night is recipe-testing night here at Cookbook Central. Yet over the course of the year, only a few dishes turn out to be so unforgettable, so ravishing, so droolworthy that they make it into the regular rotation. This year, there were 11! Stay tuned over the next couple of weeks, and we’ll celebrate and sample each one together.
The recipe: Crab & pork Spanish tortilla
Why I tried it: I have a sort of weakness for what you might call “trayf combos” – especially shellfish and pork. Also, I have a daughter who has a reluctance toward crab, but a profound, overriding enthusiasm for pork. I figured that I’d likely end up with something I could feed the whole family, so long as I could refrain from eating the whole thing myself.
Why I loved it: Haunted by the memory of many liquid, eggy disasters, I had the usual momentary panic when I went to flip the tortilla. But – miracle! – it held together as firmly as a peanut butter and jelly sandwich! I realized later that the bean thread noodles acted as a stabilizer, creating a webbed substrate in which all those fine and flavorful elements could hang suspended. And the flavors – the crab, the pork, the ginger and garlic and condiments, all mingled together – were like something you’d find in your very favorite dumpling at your very favorite dim sum place.
Estimated preparation time: 45 minutes, if you don’t muck about.
Crab and Pork Spanish Tortilla
Sunée recommends a sturdy non-stick skillet – it helps with the flipping. If you’re scared of flipping, you can use a cast-iron pan and run it right under the broiler to cook the top.
Makes 1 (10-inch) tortilla, serving 4 as a light meal.
3 ounces bean thread or glass noodles
6 large eggs
1 to 2 tablespoons heavy cream or half-and-half
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, grated or minced
½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more as needed
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
8 ounces fresh lump crabmeat, picked through for any shells or cartilage
1 tablespoon olive oil or canola oil
8 ounces ground pork
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
Fresh cilantro, mint, or Thai basil, for garnish
Julienned carrots, for garnish
Bean sprouts, for garnish
For serving: fish sauce, soy sauce, hot chili sauce, or black vinegar with sliced ginger or shallots
1. Place the noodles in a large bowl and pour boiling water over to cover. Let soak for about 10 minutes, until the noodles are soft and plump. Rinse under cold water if still hot and drain thoroughly.
2. Combine the eggs, cream, garlic, ginger, salt, and pepper in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the crabmeat and stir. Add the drained noodles to the egg-crabmeat mixture.
3. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pork and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Drain off any excess fat and let cool slightly; add the pork to the egg-noodle mixture.
4. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add another 1 teaspoon oil and the butter. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the egg-noodle mixture to the pan and cook on medium heat, tilting the pan and using a spatula all around the edges of the tortilla, pressing the egg mixture toward the center so that the liquid runs to the edge of the pan; repeat several times and cook until most of the liquid starts to set, about 5 minutes. Set the pan evenly on the heat and let cook until the bottom begins to turn a nice golden brown and the tortilla starts to firm up, another minute or two. Keep checking the bottom so it doesn’t get too brown. When the eggs are still slightly loose and just a little runny, slide the tortilla onto a plate. Cover with another plate and, holding both plates tightly, invert them so that the golden cooked side is facing up. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon oil to the pan and slide the tortilla back into the pan. Quickly use the spatula to tuck the edges under and round out the sides. Let cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, shaking the pan. You don’t want to overcook the tortilla; it will continue to cook once it’s off the heat. (If you are not feeling fearless, instead of flipping the tortilla, heat the broiler to high and place the tortilla under the broiler to cook until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Make sure your skillet is ovenproof if you do this.)
5. Transfer the tortilla to a large plate or platter and let sit for at least 10 minutes to firm up. Garnish with the herbs and vegetables. Serve warm or at room temperature with fish sauce, soy sauce, hot chili sauce, or black vinegar with sliced ginger or shallots.
From A Mouthful of Stars: A Constellation of Favorite Recipes from My World Travels by Kim Sunée/Andrews McMeel Publishing
Forget about Black Friday – you know the gift-giving season is truly underway when the NPR Book Concierge comes out, guiding you to all the best books the year has had to offer. It’s available both through your browser and as an app, and it is a Monumental Undertaking – over 250 titles picked by NPR staff and critics. Once the list comes out each year, I use it as a starting point to find reading matter for an entire year – in waiting rooms, on summer vacation, for my bedside table – until the next one comes out. And I’m sure I’m not the only one.
This year I picked, I think, 9 of the 17 food and cookbook selections. And some of the other 8 – like Apples and Baking Chez Moi – were titles I would have picked too if my colleagues had not gotten to them first! But all’s fair in love, war, and reading.
Anyway, all this is just the tip of the iceberg for cookbook coverage this month.
- Starting this week, I’ll be running the Best Recipes of 2014! series again (check out the Best Recipes of 2013 here)
- I’ll be talking up the 2014 Concierge selections on (swoon!) Morning Edition next week; and
- I will be releasing my own independent Best of 2014 cookbook roundup at NPR the week after that.